How to make hyacinth flowers from a cold porcelain
So, in the first part of the article, I
told you a little about the material cold porcelain and improvised instruments.
Today we inhale life into the clay, blind from her delicate pink hyacinth. You
should immediately understand that the hyacinth in one night, and even a day you do not do. So
that Garner patience. First of all, let me remind you what materials we
Porcelain (I recommend to cook yourself or buy polymer clay Modena)
A set of
oil paints “Sonnet” 12 colors small brush №1, 2, 4 (synthetics or
columns, or better flat oval), the N8 (fluffy round brush of very soft synthetic), diluent
№28h12 – 22 pieces (also suitable wire beads of medium thickness, it
should withstand the weight of the flower and not bend him in half)
№18h12 – 1 pc
PVA (or latex adhesive)
green or brown colors
Manicure (preferably with straight tips)
base (or something that it can replace, for example, borehole)
and good humor!
Here at least the required
tools. If you have a roller blade, and then supply a it to the list
above. You also need to further various available materials: cloth,
toilet paper, glass or other vessel for drying, etc. Do not try to
buy everything at once, it will find a lesson on photos in floral or
art supply stores. Use primarily what you will find at home.
His tools I buy gradually as needed.
I want also to pay attention to
the fact that in this lesson will be a lot of text and explanations . Where more than
images, which also nearly a hundred . The idea of such a detailed lesson
was born after I realized that I will continue to meet the familiar and
interested people on the same issues. Therefore, it seemed to me a good
decision by the example of one lesson to cover as many subtleties and immediately
narrow down the list of questions asked. Moreover, reading and studying this lesson, you
will be able to understand better in the whole set of master-classes, which is full of
the Internet. Of course, many questions still remain unanswered, as the
hyacinth affects not all methods and techniques. But you will have a solid
base. And then – a free flight and experiments!
Well. Now back to
STEP 1. Study flower
The first thing you have to start
your creative process – is the study of what you are going to create their own
hands. Go to a search engine, type in the search for “Hyacinth cold porcelain
MK” and stroll through the first couple dozen links and learn to begin those
workshops, which are already there. From my experience I would say that I will never
repeat other people’s master classes. Thanks to them, I try to understand the technique. Where the author
has simplified the flower, he realized these or other difficult moments. You will notice
that something you agree, and what do not. Just grab yourself a note of this.
Then enter in the search for “Hyacinth” and go to the tab Pictures. And …
study, treat. Do not forget to check out wikipedia and other sites where the
detailed structure of the flower, its varieties and types.
Step 2. Stamen
Now that we know which of
itself hyacinth flower, we accept his molding. The first thing is
to determine the framework. We know that the hyacinth is a lot of
small flowers, which are assembled on a thick stalk in a beautiful hat. From
flower descriptions says that on average, hyacinth from 30 to 40 flowers. So
we want to make a beautiful flower, it is better to focus on the greatest number. I chose for
myself 41 flower. Each of them, we’ll put on the wire, by means of which
will be attached to the leg of flowers, based on the same wire is
For flowers, we need such
a thin wire, as it can withstand the flower. Empirically, I
found that there is suitable wire №28. Thinner wire will have
to bend under the weight of, well, thicker wire thickened much our leg, and it
then will look unnatural.
I like to use the wire
without winding of different colors. For example, very good for a pink hyacinth
suit red wire. Leg each flower just a bit streaked
pink and using clay transparency and color of the wire, we can achieve
very interesting effects. The first thing we need to prepare 41 a piece. I
prefer to do the wire for hyacinth longer. Somewhere 10 centimeters,
so that the leg started to narrow only to the bottom and then we would have to break-
stem used not so much clay. Plus much more convenient to deal with an average
length of wire than a tiny stub.
If you have floral
wire of a certain length, then take once your desired number, add
together and a pair of scissors, cut into equal two or three parts (depending on length).
If you have a wire in the coil, like me, for the fastest cutting
a wire you will need some or notebook A5 book format.
Tight wire is wound on
our notebook, do not forget to count the correct number of turns. The width of the pad should be equal to the length of the
Now that it’s done, take the
scissors and cut the wire at one end. Try to cut carefully and
hold in this case wire so that it is not shattered you across
the room. You will get something like this:
Now carefully add up the
wire at the fold and cut this piece, as straight as possible. Fold all wires formed
together and one hand cut them to the place where they are straight. That is,
you should get a result like this in one hand:
And so, on the other:
The base is ready. Now we need
on each wire to make a small loop. For this purpose, usually
small pliers or tongs. For very thin wire I use
forceps or scissors. Just grab the edge of the folded and twists
it. And then a little squeeze. Loop should be small. Ideal to be
it is not required. The main thing – a little!
Why do the loop? It’s very
simple – clay is easily held on a hang tab when you string it on
the wire, as it increases the area of the wire, plus the lack of a sharp
tip that easily breaks still fresh clay.
Over time, you learn how to do
loops with speed of light. That’s how I was able to just five minutes.
You may be on top need a lot more time.
Excellent! Now we come to
our first modeling. We need to make tiny stamens, whose overall size slightly
smaller than a grain of rice. Remember what I told you about the long thin
scissors? The thinner scissors, the better and easier you’ll get the final
result. There will suit even rounded scissors. The main thing is that they are
the finest that you were only able to find.
While set them aside.
Now we need to paint a very small piece of cold porcelain. But
before that you have to go and wash your hands thoroughly. Clean hands – this is one of
the main rules to be observed by the master. Clay easily absorbs
himself all the dirt, even if it seems to us that our hands are clean, you can with
surprise to see how your darkened and blackened clay. I always do so.
At first my hands thoroughly, wipe them and then take a small piece of clay and
mnu his hands. He collects a finger for the rest of the dirt. Then I had
wrapped in plastic wrap and use again the next time I start
to work. When the piece becomes unpresentable, I throw it and replace with
a new one. I often use for this business tinted residues from previous work.
So our hands are clean. Despite
the fact that we will do forty-one set of stamens, we will take quite a bit
of clay. In total some 41 kruglyashok with half a grain of rice. So tear off
a piece of a diameter of no more than a centimeter, prepare immediately plastic wrap for
storage of clay and remove the paint. We will paint with oil paints. If you
purchased a set, which I wrote (Sonnet 12 colors), then take out “Cadmium
Yellow Light”. If you buy anything else, you get at any
yellow, ocher but not desirable and not yellow lemon. Why is not security – it is
understandable. Her dark ocher color, which in this case simply does not
fit. But why not the lemon? Lemon yellow color is considered to be among the
cold paint, while the warm yellow stamens. If you do not have other
colors, then, of course, what to do, use a lemon, but if you have
at the same time more and ocher, add quite a bit of it in citric paint to
muffle cool color.
Every time you will take
to paint the hands, in front of you will stand the question, how many colors to use?
It all comes with practice. You must remember that many polymer
clay, cold porcelain, after
coloring and drying darken in their color. This is especially noticeable
in more cheap paints, as well as the green color. As far as I know, the green
paint is almost always much darker, so watch carefully for
the colors with each new stucco. What would that cost. Memorize. If necessary –
write. Yellow paint darkens not very much, because it itself is
light and is therefore particularly worry
not worth here. Add the first quite a bit of paint, literally a match
head and knead it in clay. If the paint will have you on your toes, then just
continue to interfere, and soon it will intervene in the clay as well.
After mixing you get
here is a nice, rich color of the ball.
Hiding tinted clay in
plastic wrap, carefully wrapping the set speed so as not to
remain a hint of air. We remove all the excess: paint, unpainted clay,
if it is necessary to launder hand, pull out and put in front of the glue, scissors and put the
container in which we put our stamens on a wire. I use an oasis
for florists. You can use ordinary porous sponge for washing dishes.
I changed it into an oasis where I had the opportunity to buy it. Oasis
withstand more weight and has more space than a sponge. It’s her big plus.
But there are also disadvantages. Since we use a dry oasis, it is a bit unpleasant
smell and may even crumble. So here it is to decide he needed or
not. I believe that you can do without it. Stamens before I do has dried
in the cup.
We take our clay and comes off
a tiny piece. Everything else wrap. Form the fingers kata
movements of the ball.
Now, the ball slightly
flattened between his fingers. Usually after that, he has the audacity to stick to
one of your fingers. I somehow always to a large, rather than
stick to the index immediately … Gently tear off and shift. Wetting
the tip of the wire with a loop in the adhesive, remove the excess (usually I remove the excess on
the back of the hand, and then take off the glue dried up, your fingers should be
clean and dry) and putting a wire.
Our jams a piece of clay,
twist, Mnemonic, very gently cupping a grain of rice, while doing
so, to loop was in the bottom half of the grain.
If the wire is a little
seen, it is not scary. This part will still be hidden inside the flower. We are
the main thing that was on top of enough clay to form the stamens. We take
our scissors and carefully cut the top seed in two parts. Try
cut so that the center of the wire to be seen. Then each half
carefully cut into three parts.
If suddenly you are unable to
cut into each part three, cut in two. Over time you will learn. We need
more practice. Another thing I would advise not to spare clay. If suddenly you have not
turned out, simply remove the clay with wires, clean that and try again.
It is better to work out a little bit and get a beautiful stamens, than you will be all
crooked. It is not difficult! By the end of the creation of all the stamens, they have to be
obtained in flight!
Stamen ready! You can relax
a couple of hours or the next day to continue. They need to dry. If you do not
give stamens dry, when in the future you will be put the wire
through the flower stamens can get off it and you have to do all over again. And
it you want?
STEP 3. Lepim flowers
This step is the most difficult but also
the most rewarding. We need to sculpt something that forms hyacinth itself makes it
so beautiful and unusual – flowers. The basis for them are already ready for us.
Now we need to make myself a flower, and then a little break in the clay of the wire
in the form of legs. In this step, we will deal is just the beginning.
So, make sure that your stamens
rather dry and not slezut with wires, check the cleanliness of hands and reach for
the clay. We need this time a lot more clay. Approximately here
Now we need to embellish it.
We’ll do a pink hyacinth. I want to achieve a beautiful color with delicate porcelain
shade. It is time to examine our paints and understand which of them we want.
Wrap a piece of clay, and set it aside. Take your Kara and poschite
the base color that will suit you. The kit Sonnet perfect
paint “Carmine.” Turn it and see ** labeling and white box.
Asterisks denote ink lightfastness. We are not so important. Although, of course,
better to choose 2 or 3 stars instead of one. It is more resistant paint and they are not
so quickly fade. For example, three asterisks mean that the paint will remain
as they have over a hundred years.
One star – 10-20 years. I’m still inclined to think that the light fastness
of paint affects how much darker the paint after drying. But I can not
yet precisely this to be sure. Try to experiment themselves. And
here’s the box is very important to us. The square represents how Opaque or
transparent, our paint.
– A filled completely black square means that the paint is
opaque, ie opaque. And for such paints include, for example, titanium dioxide.
What this means, it means that if you add a cold porcelain
titanium dioxide, enough to stain the porcelain into a clean, white color, it completely loses its porcelain transparency, however, the effect of
plastics will continue and vysohnuv such flowers will seem made of
plastic. Sometimes you may still prove useful titanium white when you are exactly
sure what you need to drown out the clay transparency. The effect of plastic can be
removed partially and then toning colors on the dry material.
– Shaded half-black square means that the paint
poluukryvistaya. It will also mute the decent transparency of porcelain, but
all the same for small batches of paint, your petals and the leaves will be
transparent. Such dyes include, for example, zinc oxide. They should
be added in very small quantities, otherwise you can “kill” the transparency of
the material. Usually, all bright colors, if you do not want a strong transparency,
which is usually bordered with wax effect, it is necessary to add a bit
of zinc oxide.
– Crossed the white box means that before you translucent
paint. Such paints are actually the majority, and they are only
slightly different from poluukryvistyh paints for us.
– A white box indicates that it is a transparent paint. Such paint
added to the clay without the addition of other colors retains full transparency of
porcelain. However, it is worth remembering that the dried leaves are often paraffinic porcelain
effect, and if you want to get rid of it, then you should add white. But
how much you want to get rid of it – and it will determine what kind of
white you add. Most of all, we need transparency, and so we are adding
zinc oxide instead of titanium.
We now return to our paint.
Look at the mark. Before us is a transparent paint (square white), and this
means that if we want to get soft porcelain effect, we need to add
to the clay is very little paint (white will play here the color of the clay) and
add a bit of white exclusively to repay the paraffin
Effect. We will add zinc white. We need transparency and porcelain
for the flowers.
I added carmine literally three match heads and
a match head whitewash. I have been involved previously and the remaining
small piece of pink hyacinth porcelain from the former, and I decided to compare.
Bearing in mind that the paint we have a **, I felt that it will darken. I left
the color is the same as that of the dried piece, or even a little bit darker, so I
took a little more pure clay and mix it with just tinted.
Since he plays the role of white clay,
that my color was lighter at the end. But
after drying it slightly to the right will darken my color.
Wrap our clay, remove
all unnecessary, relax, meditate, drink tea … mentally prepared for the very long
Take a small piece of clay. In the
photo shows a piece of a little more than you need. I then photographed
tore away somewhere size with three rice seed. But it is not so important. You
yourself then realize what size you want the ball. I usually just otyrvayu and
harvested ten balls and hide out in the film, along with the rest of tinted
clay. When I left one ball, I take off again. So, I
always know what size I need balls. Plus it allows you to not break away
from the process at constant tearing and unwinding of a large piece of clay.
Do not tear off immediately all forty-one ball! Small pieces of clay to dry
more quickly. And your clay can dry out before you even her Fashion a
We put our ball on the palm and
fingers unroll it into a droplet. Note that the smaller
side of the droplet has a blunt end! It is very important. Because if you make a
fine droplet, you will turn out thin, sharp and stubby petals.
We take the scissors and cut straight drop of somewhere ¾ of the entire length. If you are rounded scissors, then your
pieces are obtained curves. If the scissors are short blades you may
not be enough to cut the length of a droplet at a time. In this case, cut very
neatly. You have to cut a little bit not allowing scissors fully
connected. Otherwise, you’ll have a ragged edge.
Gently pushing the fingers
a little bit each half, and just a little crush her fingers and a sharp
tip to correct, making it tidy. Now just try to gently
cut each half into three herbal parts. If you could not,
better crumple quickly clay, mix and try again.
Now you need to take your workpiece
and gently correct petals, arranging them evenly and symmetrically, and then
placed between the fingers of both hands (in this regard, no photo) between the
thumb and forefinger, very gently from the bottom to squeeze so as not to
spoil the shape of a rounded base, but squeeze the bottom (and also cut),
forcing the petals unfold like a hand and connect place just above
the cut somewhere at 4.2 mm.
We put the first flower petal
to the index finger so that he was between the joints of the phalanges.
Use your thumb to carefully adhere to for
Now take a stack and are putting
a thin end to the bottom of our tab (in the middle,) and very gently pressing down on the center
presses the leaf to the finger, laminating one movement on the finger. That is,
we would like to finger presses the tab and the shape he lies. It is very important
here in any case do not unroll tab from left to right! Otherwise, you
will turn mugs. The edges should be plump, but inside needs to be a thin
, even a little transparent. If at one time you did not work, repeat the same
movement from the center to the edge is continuous with it several times. It is important that during the movement of the stack does not take the tip and not rested in the middle lobe.Laminating on
your fingers, it comes out of the midway, and then in the opposite direction
back there. I hope that is clear.
So we roll out
each petal, flower gradually turning on her finger. When all
the petals will roll out, we will again squeeze a little flower between her fingers,
as it is we have to roll out and fix our base form. Then, take the hands of
a stack of thick leaves and curls his side.
Now the thin side of the stack in
the center of the groove done carefully. It must be the diameter of a little more than
the diameter of our stamens.
Take the wire, grease it
And is passed through the center accurately
it by inserting stamen. The stamens have quite a bit of looking out the dimples. Keep the back of the wire left
hold quite a bit of clay at the bottom and crimp with your fingers gently around the
We put out to dry. And repeat
the process for another forty times! Flowers should be well dry. It takes a day.
STEP 4. Foot flower
Well. Flowers wither, and
you can proceed to the legs. This is the penultimate step prior to assembly. For the legs, we
need a very light pale green. I took a bit of clay and adding a
cadmium yellow light, and quite a bit of grassy greens. I need a completely
transparent clay, because I want to get through this color is shone through the red
wire. For this reason I do not quite add whitewash.
Take a small piece of clay.
Somewhere a little more than we took to the stamens.
Again crush her finger.
Coat with a centimeter and a half
leg and putting a flower clay.
Hold it a little while
pulling here and get this result:
Now we have to break in a leg. I
work with his left hand. I do not know why, but I feel so comfortable. Flower with the
keep on the right. Thumb and forefinger, I twist the clay, aligning it
pushing on it and slowly pulling down. Care should be taken
to ensure that the clay fits snugly against the base of the flower.
We continue to delay the clay down,
spreading on the leg.
If you have an ugly seam at
the base of flower, wet his index finger quite a bit in the water and
held there, moistening the clay, continue to drive the finger gently. You
will see how the softened clay on top and smear gently lapping to
pink clay. The main thing is not to overdo. As a result, I got here this
slide. Here you see the lilac’s flowers. I did a combination of two
flower. But pictures of mostly pink.
By the way, I want to share
supervision. When I did, stamens, flowers and running, every step I
always put her in front of ten pieces of wire. Forty flowers – it’s very
much and it is morally “many” starts to put pressure on you (and in my case it
was even 82 flower), but the countdown to ten makes the process more
transparent. And it is much easier tolerated.
Once the clay is dry, it
immediately became clear. Notice how there is illuminated green
And here red.
Flowers dried up and is now ready
to toning! Hooray!
STEP 5. toning colors
For painting over the finished
product, I use a water-soluble oil. It costs a little more expensive than the usual
high-quality oil, but it is less hassle and it is very good for people with allergies
or those with a family has young children. This oil can be diluted with water,
but I use a special thinner for him. He just does not smell. Water I
do not use because clay does not tolerate it. In addition to all this oil
dries faster and brushes can be washed with plain water and soap. Well, I already
have a very large palette of colors.
In your case you should
just use the same paint, which you tinted flowers. I
took a series of similar water-soluble color. We need the same
brush (synthetic approach) round or flat (but not fluffy) number
1 and 2. And the palette. Any.
We dipped the brush into the diluent and
add it to the paint. Here is the state of the paint to dilute a little
gouache. It can be a bit thinner. But not as a watercolor.
Brush No. 1 recruit paint
and draw in the middle of each petal line. Do not bring it to the outer edge.
Take the brush and plenty of
movement back and forth (as indicated by arrows in the picture) to shade the paint
on the petal. In no case do not move in the other direction. The edges should be light and quite
thick. Make sure the paint shade almost to the edges of the
petals. Be careful! Extremely careful!
This step is pretty fast.
After some time, you will slide drying flowers! We give them to dry
for one to three days. Depending on how you use oil.
STEP 6. Assembling flowers
Flowers wither, and we are ready to
assemble. At this time we need teip tape, scissors and a thick wire
for the base of the stem.
Cut off from a piece of tape teip-length somewhere 25 centimeters.
Fold it in several times.
Cut carefully with scissors into two equal parts.
Harvest these pieces 8 pieces.
Take one slice, unwinding
it and very gently stretch. You will see how to brighten from this tape. Stretch
we teip feed in order to improve its adhesive properties.
three most beautiful flower. And we put them in the tip. We look to the pitch and found passed between each other, carefully check all.
It should look like something like this.
Now take the tape and clamp it
around the flowers. Firmly squeeze the fingers and hold a moment. To tape
glued. Very carefully pull this place, wrapped under tension even in
two turns somewhere tape so that it is not untwisted. Here you will need
practice. But sooner or later you’ll get. I also happened.
Now we obtain our wire
thicker and are putting it. We maintain, winding around her teip feed.
And domatyvaem until the end of the entire tape,
connecting the base wire with a three-wire tip. Drum band at
an angle and at the same time it is still a little stretching. Be careful that the tape is not
broken. If it still breaks, attach it just above the top of the already
wound site and continue.
Here is a blank you
Further process is quite
simple. Approximately seven in a row placed flowers. You will have five rows
and still have 2-3 flowers on the stock for all kinds of places, when it
seemed that the seven flowers are not enough. Not necessarily have
flowers strictly one above the other. It is important to look beautiful. That’s
So, take the next flower.
Very carefully, bending his leg in the desired position to form
a rounded cap and primatyvaem it to our leg. Making just one round!
Once you’ve wrapped once
the tape at almost a right angle, apply the next flower, and so on.
Try to check the location of the
flowers. In order to have turned cap. Once you have collected a number,
continue winding teip-tape down the stem, as we did in the previous
raze as much as you have enough of the cut piece. We do this to
ensure that the wire is evenly distributed in the form of core wire
legs. Well, I do not interfere with us.
Keep collecting flowers
now making sure that they are the same distance from
the stem to the previous upper rows. If you do not follow this, then
you’ll get the curve and the ugly hyacinth. After the last of a number of take the
remaining tape and wrap her legs residue to hide all the protruding
wire and core wire.
Step 7. The run-stalk
To stem the running, we need
a small piece of clay. So I did just two of the flower, I have the size of
a piece more. Remains of clay you can then use for leaves.
Green is very diverse.
Mainly used for the green grass “Grass green” and “Virdinovaya
Since the clay a lot, and the paint
will be used as much, but remember that the green paint is particularly strong
dark. Keep this in mind. I wanted to make green more yellow. So
I added a bit of ocher and quite a drop of burnt umber. Burnt umber
worked instead of white. Since it is opaque and green paint “grass
green” transparent, it allowed me, without increasing the lightness of paint, reduce the
transparency of the clay.
As a result, I get this
is such a color. It seems light, but after drying the clay becomes
approximately twice darker!
For the running of the stem I use
here are roller blades. You can get by perfectly ordinary knife or
a scalpel instead of knives.
And on the palm of his forming
a neat sausage.
All fingers just very
gently roll out sausages, slowly pulling it. Total length should
be slightly less than the desired obkatyvanii. As you can see, the length is usually obtained
a little more. So do not forget to trim the excess from the side, where the clay is
adjacent to the flower.
Now take a knife or roller
knife and make a tidy indentation poseredinke about half
the thickness of the sausage. Please note that this clay is more stretched and
sausage will be longer. That’s why we made it a little shorter.
Since we need a flat foot, and
we at the top of our billet thicker than the bottom, we will roll out a stack of neatly
directly on our face (you do not forget it cleaned first because yes?) Our
clay, making it thinner towards the edge where it will be adjacent to the flowers.
We lubricate our wire and glue very
carefully begin to invest it. Take, if necessary, all the matter in hand and, pressing, put on clay over the entire length.
It is also very fast start zaschipyvat edge. If your finger
gets glue, wash it by any rapid means. If you
‘re on the hook sticky adhesive with your fingers, then your clay will be torn ugly
and stick to the fingers. I pin so far as the clay is something
looks like pin dumplings. Watch also for the fact that the thin piece of clay
from the flowers and very tight against eroding, rather than remain a thick
hanging edge. It should flow as if in teip feed. This effect we will strengthen
later. On the other side of the wire, take care, so that she is not got out and tore
After. As you zaschipnuli
edge, try to trample them, and spread as far as possible.
After this step is that I could not take pictures because of the lack of time and the unwillingness to spoil the flower. And the lack of third-hand at least! Slide the pad to the table and put a flower paradise so that your hat hanging. Then put your fingers on the leg all fit! And start to roll a little pushing, forcing flower roll on the mat. Make sure that the flowers are not clinging to the mat. Do not push strongly to clay is not sprawling and not torn. Try as best you can roll up your butt and straighten the leg.
you left a seam, you will need to hide it. It will help us to water. Pour into a
glass of water or go to the sink (I usually run to the sink … a little
workout in the process does not hurt!) And soak the fingers of his right hand with water. Left
hand holding a flower gently over the cap. Put water on the leg and start
her rubbing. You will see how the top layer of clay will become sticky as a PVA glue.
If the fingers are beginning to dry out, rinse them with clay and then wet a little bit,
then continue to turn to twirl, to smooth your leg, trying to remove all the
seams and make it as smooth as possible. Do not overdo it with water,
otherwise the clay may be deep enough to wet and just raspolztis in your
eyes. Especially gently and carefully primazhte clay near the flowers to
make a smooth transition between the foot and teip-tape. Make sure that the
flowers and teip tape is not soaked.
you can see, is such a leg compared to neobkatannoy we turned.
Left to dry flowers. I take the
glasses and put them flowers caps down. When dry feet, they strongly
Just the color I want!
Step 8. leves
There was a queue of leaves. In hyacinth leaves are thick and
depending on the variety they come in different colors and different sizes. I decided to make
two small, thick leaves. They flower looks beautiful, and they are not so
difficult to do. Although if you get to this step, you make the leaves will be
easier than ever!
We stayed on clay legs.
That’s it and take. Take a small ball.
And rolled into a sausage with a
Now very carefully stacked on
a little leaf begin to roll in the direction indicated in the picture. If at
this point you will begin to roll from side to side or push hard, trying to
ride a stack immediately around the leaf, you’ll have a wildly leaf curve,
which will either have to trim with scissors or
Once you unrolled leaf
desired length and thickness check everything correctly? If you do not like the edges,
then trim them carefully with scissors, and then finger correct these places,
so that they are not different from others. The bottom of the leaf roll harder and thinner.
Correct leaf and put on
the lower part of the glue with a thin layer.
leaf to the bottom of the legs and gently, carefully push the clay there.
Now, again, we use water
to clean the abutment. Smooth the clay on the leaf stalk.
Take the paper or anything
else, and secure it so that the leaf is in the desired position. If
this is not done, under his weight, he just stick to the stalk and look like
it will happen terrible.
Roll out the
second leaf and secure top. Leave to dry your composition. The paper
can be removed in about a half a day, when the leaves will hold its
shape. But I usually leave for the day, and the latter do toning already on
the following day.
Step 9: Final Touches
Oh, did we move to the final?
I can see the finish line!
Take the paint. You will need
a green (preferably at least two colors), cadmium yellow, titanium white, cadmium
red and burnt umber. I have a bit of other colors, as my palette is very
big, but I will explain how to paint what are called and how can I get the paint
number 7 and 5. You will also need brushes of different sizes. The most slender
of parts, brush a little more, which you will apply the color, even more,
which will rastushovyvat and mix them on the product and the biggest, very
soft and fluffy for rastushevyvaniya and create smooth transitions.
green. It looks at the color of dark olive. You can get added to the grassy
green little burnt umber.
Pthalo Green. This wildly-green
color with a yellow tinge. Something similar to the emerald.
yellow. In essence, this beige color with a slight tinge of yellow. You can
get added to the white little golden ocher.
red. You can get added to the Burnt Umber little red cadmium. Quite
a droplet. You can get more in other ways. Experiment. You
will need a brownish-red, brick color.
We are adding to our palette. I’m not
sure that I will use all the colors, but I always put all the colors,
which I think may be useful to me.
With thinner, I’m in the way
of color in the desired shades me. Arrows I showed what colors, how I
got it. As you can see, I did not use white. To me, they were not needed, so
I have a Naples yellow paint. There are already white in fact.
I put the paint on the stem. I located her hatichno. Somewhere lighter somewhere
darker. Closer to the flowers I added a bit of brick color. Thicker
brush gently mix it all. And then a big fluffy brush and dry
sweeping movements barely touching the product mix paint. And in the end
get a smooth gradient.
Apply the paint with a little yellow
by adding green to the ground.
Large brush to shade
a little stepping on the leaves.
Just add a little dark green paint on the
leaves both outside and inside, again shaded.
The most thin brush on the edge
spend brick color.
the thicker brush shade that is on the leaves outside and
inside, and then one more time I spend on the edge of the paint, because it is shade and
it was the worst seen.
We put to dry for a couple of days.
And oh! Our flower ready for
a photo shoot!
And this is the second invisible companion who accompanied pink hyacinth along its path of birth.
I wish you success! And patience!